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Whenever assembling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners completely astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this culinary honour.